The flame fusion process of making corundum in a lab has been around for over one hundred years and is usually easily spotted by anyone with some basic gem ID knowledge and a decent microscope. The colors are usually too good to be true and without strong zoning or prominent secondary hues. So when we received a classic “Ceylon” color sapphire – that saturated soft violetish-blue with apparent color zoning when tilted, it was a surprise to see copious amounts of gas bubbles inside (that means synthetic). It was also the second such stone we have had in a short period of time, indicative of a new source in the marketplace.
That source is often from the internet, with false assertions by those who are in the business and know full well what they are selling. Don’t base a purchase on an unknown source, appraiser or “feedback” rating without a trip to NGL and full return promise if not fully satisfied. Caveat Emptor!
Sunday, November 20, 2005
Gem treatments confuse consumers and jewelers alike
It seems like there’s another gem treatment around every corner these days. While gemologists have to stay on their toes to keep up, a curious consumer just gets more confused over what is natural, synthetic and treated - and their jeweler may not know.
As gemologists we have seen inclusions (what we need to identify origin) change over the years to make the identification of treatments more challenging than straight synthetics. So when Tom Chatham, (Chatham Created Gems) was speaking at a recent GIA Alumni presentation about the history of his company’s “creations” and the properties of these new inclusions in
natural gemstones, he asked the question “Where do we draw the line between natural and synthetic?” A very good question since more and more natural stones are altered with synthetic foreign material. Is a glass-filled ruby still a natural ruby? The material may be red corundum (ruby) but with synthetic features including flux residues. Flux residues are a major characteristic of synthetic flux-melt rubies! We might think the stone was of a synthetic origin. Well, part of it is. Of course, a ruby may owe its color entirely to treatment to begin with. What used to be a venerable gemstone has definitely been tainted due to these treatments.
While the industry allows “traditional” treatments to gems it tends to shun radical means of color enhancement until enough people are doing it to add that treatment to the tradition. As long as the consumer wants purer color in their gems, there will be a market for whatever treatment brings it to them. Every day, consumers at the supermarket buy artificially enhanced
produce over organic because it looks better, so it’s not surprising.
As gemologists we have seen inclusions (what we need to identify origin) change over the years to make the identification of treatments more challenging than straight synthetics. So when Tom Chatham, (Chatham Created Gems) was speaking at a recent GIA Alumni presentation about the history of his company’s “creations” and the properties of these new inclusions in
natural gemstones, he asked the question “Where do we draw the line between natural and synthetic?” A very good question since more and more natural stones are altered with synthetic foreign material. Is a glass-filled ruby still a natural ruby? The material may be red corundum (ruby) but with synthetic features including flux residues. Flux residues are a major characteristic of synthetic flux-melt rubies! We might think the stone was of a synthetic origin. Well, part of it is. Of course, a ruby may owe its color entirely to treatment to begin with. What used to be a venerable gemstone has definitely been tainted due to these treatments.While the industry allows “traditional” treatments to gems it tends to shun radical means of color enhancement until enough people are doing it to add that treatment to the tradition. As long as the consumer wants purer color in their gems, there will be a market for whatever treatment brings it to them. Every day, consumers at the supermarket buy artificially enhanced
produce over organic because it looks better, so it’s not surprising.
GIA Unveils "New" Cut Grade
Finally, a GIA cut grade for round diamonds. After years of study, computerized modeling techniques and debate, the GIA has announced its new five-grade system for proportion analysis. A lot of science went into this system that looks at angles, percentages and light return so while the chosen nomenclature isn’t too exciting, it is easy to present. It goes Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor. Their new Facetware™ software can be picked-up on-line to do your own estimates and the Gem Trade Lab will start using the system in 2006. This will not result in any changes at NGL, since these are the terms we have always used!
The Plots Thicken (op-ed with Ted)
While the industry trend is to get away from diagramming a diamond’s inclusion pattern -
known as plotting, NGL will not only continue to include a center diamond diagram with our fine
jewelry appraisals, but do so through an improved system. It took a while to find a method
with the same precision as our hand-drawn diagrams, but now we offer just that - hand drawings, but digitally rendered and saved for future reference. Rather than use computerized conventions as does GIA, ours have the quality and “feel” of the diamond’s actual inclusion
pattern.
The diamond plot is a valuable tool to identify your diamond and is more conclusive than a surface inscription. Unfortunately, many of the big labs don’t like to plot because it takes time and expertise their people may not have. It also requires the jeweler to explain “those little red
marks” that represent the diamond’s inclusions to their customer. Heaven forbid we jeopardize a sale over the education of our clientele! Additionally, not all jewelry appraisers provide plots and some that do charge extra. One respected colleague charges $50 for a diamond plot. At NGL, it’s included at no extra charge.
known as plotting, NGL will not only continue to include a center diamond diagram with our fine
jewelry appraisals, but do so through an improved system. It took a while to find a method
with the same precision as our hand-drawn diagrams, but now we offer just that - hand drawings, but digitally rendered and saved for future reference. Rather than use computerized conventions as does GIA, ours have the quality and “feel” of the diamond’s actual inclusionpattern.
The diamond plot is a valuable tool to identify your diamond and is more conclusive than a surface inscription. Unfortunately, many of the big labs don’t like to plot because it takes time and expertise their people may not have. It also requires the jeweler to explain “those little red
marks” that represent the diamond’s inclusions to their customer. Heaven forbid we jeopardize a sale over the education of our clientele! Additionally, not all jewelry appraisers provide plots and some that do charge extra. One respected colleague charges $50 for a diamond plot. At NGL, it’s included at no extra charge.
Tips for People Selling Their Fine Jewelry
Appraisals are utilized for various functions -insurance, estates, dissolutions and other legal matters. They can also facilitate a resale by helping the prospective buyer make an informed decision. That’s exactly what we are seeing more of these days - appraisals for people wishing to sell their jewelry. The prospect of re-selling jewelry is challenging in this highly competitive marketplace and NGL is here to help with another “What You Need To Know” brochure. With tips for selling to both professional buyers and individuals, we discuss methods of sale, auctions - both traditional and electronic, benefits and pitfalls of each. It also provides some alternatives you may not have considered. Drop by the lab for a complimentary copy or visit www.nwgem.com for a free download.
Friday, May 20, 2005
New Sales Techniques for Pre-Owned Jewelry
Preliminary Reports for everyone !!
Until now, our preliminary fine jewelry reports have been available only to those in the resale trade,i.e. antique stores, pawn brokers, etc. because these reports are not for insurance purposes, but to facilitate a sale of pre-owned jewelry. Now, with the prevalence of E-marketing and those who consign, we have decided to offer this service directly to the public. Our Preliminary Fine Jewelry Report gives the prospective buyer the metal identity of the item, stone identity, estimated weights for diamonds, color, clarity etc. in a compact form with color photograph. A realistic retail value places the article in perspective for an informed decision. This an abbreviated report not for insurance, but for verification and relative
value. The cost is $40 by appointment/down to $30 in quantity with 3-5 day turnaround.
CD Support Services for pre-owned jewelry now include high resolution CD burned
photographs to include in your advertising. Our detailed photos help the client visualize their upcoming purchase or archive items for future use. Add from $15 to your existing service. Can also be used to compliment your fine jewelry appraisal by putting everything on CD.
Want to Sell? Our brochure will be available soon
Our newly revised “What You Need To Know About Selling Your Fine Jewelry” gives the layperson insight into the realities of marketing fine jewelry and the various methods available to them. Information for private sale, auctions, E-trading, print media plus possible tax implications. Click on Selling Your Jewelry or call for this updated brochure.
Until now, our preliminary fine jewelry reports have been available only to those in the resale trade,i.e. antique stores, pawn brokers, etc. because these reports are not for insurance purposes, but to facilitate a sale of pre-owned jewelry. Now, with the prevalence of E-marketing and those who consign, we have decided to offer this service directly to the public. Our Preliminary Fine Jewelry Report gives the prospective buyer the metal identity of the item, stone identity, estimated weights for diamonds, color, clarity etc. in a compact form with color photograph. A realistic retail value places the article in perspective for an informed decision. This an abbreviated report not for insurance, but for verification and relative
value. The cost is $40 by appointment/down to $30 in quantity with 3-5 day turnaround.
CD Support Services for pre-owned jewelry now include high resolution CD burned
photographs to include in your advertising. Our detailed photos help the client visualize their upcoming purchase or archive items for future use. Add from $15 to your existing service. Can also be used to compliment your fine jewelry appraisal by putting everything on CD.
Want to Sell? Our brochure will be available soon
Our newly revised “What You Need To Know About Selling Your Fine Jewelry” gives the layperson insight into the realities of marketing fine jewelry and the various methods available to them. Information for private sale, auctions, E-trading, print media plus possible tax implications. Click on Selling Your Jewelry or call for this updated brochure.
Who's Appraising Your Jewelry? (op-ed with Ted)
If you want to appraise real estate, youneed a special license. If you want to appraise jewelry, just print a business card.
When I got into the business of appraising jewelry over twenty-five years ago, no special licensing was required to place value to someone’s jewelry. Today, little has changed. Appraisers of fine jewelry abound, some willing to do anything to acquire business - and I mean anything.
NGL has given up enough business over the years to support many “appraisers” who don’t really care what value goes on an item - just so they can profit by the transaction. I keep seeing appraisals up to eight times the jeweler’s cost—a bit high considering today’s competitive market, don’t you think? Since NGL does not cater to all elements of the jewelry industry, we loose business to those who do, but retain an integrity to the remaining jewelers who believe in honest representations to their clients.
Many appraisers also deal in jewelry on the side (or up front). Not illegal, not even immoral except when they represent themselves as “independent”. And ours isn’t an isolated industry. Appraisers and agents in other fields routinely enter into transactions over the articles they examine, but I think that smacks of conflict- of-interest.
Am I ever tempted to sell to the public, especially after seeing the rip-offs I do? Sure. I could make a lot more money than I do now, but feel I would impugn my integrity to the industry and the public as an independent appraiser. If I do ever cross over, I will be up front about it.
As the Northwest’s first independent fine jewelry appraisal laboratory and one of the few that doesn’t sell jewelry, NGL takes pride in offering uncompromised appraisal services for insurance, estate and other legal purposes. I hope that matters to you.
When I got into the business of appraising jewelry over twenty-five years ago, no special licensing was required to place value to someone’s jewelry. Today, little has changed. Appraisers of fine jewelry abound, some willing to do anything to acquire business - and I mean anything.
NGL has given up enough business over the years to support many “appraisers” who don’t really care what value goes on an item - just so they can profit by the transaction. I keep seeing appraisals up to eight times the jeweler’s cost—a bit high considering today’s competitive market, don’t you think? Since NGL does not cater to all elements of the jewelry industry, we loose business to those who do, but retain an integrity to the remaining jewelers who believe in honest representations to their clients.
Many appraisers also deal in jewelry on the side (or up front). Not illegal, not even immoral except when they represent themselves as “independent”. And ours isn’t an isolated industry. Appraisers and agents in other fields routinely enter into transactions over the articles they examine, but I think that smacks of conflict- of-interest.
Am I ever tempted to sell to the public, especially after seeing the rip-offs I do? Sure. I could make a lot more money than I do now, but feel I would impugn my integrity to the industry and the public as an independent appraiser. If I do ever cross over, I will be up front about it.
As the Northwest’s first independent fine jewelry appraisal laboratory and one of the few that doesn’t sell jewelry, NGL takes pride in offering uncompromised appraisal services for insurance, estate and other legal purposes. I hope that matters to you.
