NGI Students Exercise Their Passion For Gemology

Wow! We have never had so many “dedicated” gemology students. By that we mean those taking multiple classes or even starting GIA diploma courses. Our Spring classes saw an almost complete turnover of Diamond Grading students into our Gemstone ID course and then to our Gem ID II course. From those classes four NGI graduates were already or about to be enrolled at the G.I.A. (Gemological Institute of America). Having taken our classes, they will be able to utilize NGI equipment and cruise through their studies (saving thousands of dollars in the process) as they complete their G.I.A. Graduate Gemologist program.

Discount Tuition Packages
In 2006, we will bundle multiple classes for discounts so those interested in more than one can get a tuition break. Although our single class rates have finally been raised (still half of G.I.A.’s
comparable class), applied discounts make them similar to those of ’05. To obtain these rates you must register for multiple classes as a package.

Registration advice.
Classes are intentionally small so early enrollment is recommended. Several sold out in 2005. Also note that Gemstone Identification II or Gemstone Evaluation courses require taking Gemstone Identification first. Ted’s Tucson Tour requires you to take Gem ID and Gem Evaluation. All of our classes may be viewed at http://www.nwgem.com/

Laser-ed Out of Flawless

A couple of newsletters ago we spoke to an instance where laser-inscriptions could lower a diamond’s clarity grade and guess what? A pending sale between a local buyer and Internet jeweler brought us a GIA certified Internally Flawless one carat diamond for verification and value. The diamond checked out to the GIA documentation with one exception – a laser
inscription not there at the time of certification had been added by the seller, with their name and ID number on the girdle. Unfortunately, the process used had entered the diamond and was visible at 10X in the face-up position. The diamond now graded VVS and would require re-cutting to bring it back to flawless, potentially making it less than a carat (that’s thousands of dollars). While most inscriptions are not intrusive, this case-in-point shows us the need for caution in such procedures. It also points out the need to have third-party verification before a purchase. Had the buyer not done this, it may have been
years before its detection.

Speaking of Synthetics...

The flame fusion process of making corundum in a lab has been around for over one hundred years and is usually easily spotted by anyone with some basic gem ID knowledge and a decent microscope. The colors are usually too good to be true and without strong zoning or prominent secondary hues. So when we received a classic “Ceylon” color sapphire – that saturated soft violetish-blue with apparent color zoning when tilted, it was a surprise to see copious amounts of gas bubbles inside (that means synthetic). It was also the second such stone we have had in a short period of time, indicative of a new source in the marketplace.
That source is often from the internet, with false assertions by those who are in the business and know full well what they are selling. Don’t base a purchase on an unknown source, appraiser or “feedback” rating without a trip to NGL and full return promise if not fully satisfied. Caveat Emptor!

Gem treatments confuse consumers and jewelers alike

It seems like there’s another gem treatment around every corner these days. While gemologists have to stay on their toes to keep up, a curious consumer just gets more confused over what is natural, synthetic and treated - and their jeweler may not know.
As gemologists we have seen inclusions (what we need to identify origin) change over the years to make the identification of treatments more challenging than straight synthetics. So when Tom Chatham, (Chatham Created Gems) was speaking at a recent GIA Alumni presentation about the history of his company’s “creations” and the properties of these new inclusions in natural gemstones, he asked the question “Where do we draw the line between natural and synthetic?” A very good question since more and more natural stones are altered with synthetic foreign material. Is a glass-filled ruby still a natural ruby? The material may be red corundum (ruby) but with synthetic features including flux residues. Flux residues are a major characteristic of synthetic flux-melt rubies! We might think the stone was of a synthetic origin. Well, part of it is. Of course, a ruby may owe its color entirely to treatment to begin with. What used to be a venerable gemstone has definitely been tainted due to these treatments.
While the industry allows “traditional” treatments to gems it tends to shun radical means of color enhancement until enough people are doing it to add that treatment to the tradition. As long as the consumer wants purer color in their gems, there will be a market for whatever treatment brings it to them. Every day, consumers at the supermarket buy artificially enhanced
produce over organic because it looks better, so it’s not surprising.

GIA Unveils "New" Cut Grade

Finally, a GIA cut grade for round diamonds. After years of study, computerized modeling techniques and debate, the GIA has announced its new five-grade system for proportion analysis. A lot of science went into this system that looks at angles, percentages and light return so while the chosen nomenclature isn’t too exciting, it is easy to present. It goes Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair and Poor. Their new Facetware™ software can be picked-up on-line to do your own estimates and the Gem Trade Lab will start using the system in 2006. This will not result in any changes at NGL, since these are the terms we have always used!

The Plots Thicken (op-ed with Ted)

While the industry trend is to get away from diagramming a diamond’s inclusion pattern -
known as plotting, NGL will not only continue to include a center diamond diagram with our fine
jewelry appraisals, but do so through an improved system. It took a while to find a method
with the same precision as our hand-drawn diagrams, but now we offer just that - hand drawings, but digitally rendered and saved for future reference. Rather than use computerized conventions as does GIA, ours have the quality and “feel” of the diamond’s actual inclusion
pattern.
The diamond plot is a valuable tool to identify your diamond and is more conclusive than a surface inscription. Unfortunately, many of the big labs don’t like to plot because it takes time and expertise their people may not have. It also requires the jeweler to explain “those little red
marks” that represent the diamond’s inclusions to their customer. Heaven forbid we jeopardize a sale over the education of our clientele! Additionally, not all jewelry appraisers provide plots and some that do charge extra. One respected colleague charges $50 for a diamond plot. At NGL, it’s included at no extra charge.

Tips for People Selling Their Fine Jewelry

Appraisals are utilized for various functions -insurance, estates, dissolutions and other legal matters. They can also facilitate a resale by helping the prospective buyer make an informed decision. That’s exactly what we are seeing more of these days - appraisals for people wishing to sell their jewelry. The prospect of re-selling jewelry is challenging in this highly competitive marketplace and NGL is here to help with another “What You Need To Know” brochure. With tips for selling to both professional buyers and individuals, we discuss methods of sale, auctions - both traditional and electronic, benefits and pitfalls of each. It also provides some alternatives you may not have considered. Drop by the lab for a complimentary copy or visit www.nwgem.com for a free download.

New Sales Techniques for Pre-Owned Jewelry

Preliminary Reports for everyone !!
Until now, our preliminary fine jewelry reports have been available only to those in the resale trade,i.e. antique stores, pawn brokers, etc. because these reports are not for insurance purposes, but to facilitate a sale of pre-owned jewelry. Now, with the prevalence of E-marketing and those who consign, we have decided to offer this service directly to the public. Our Preliminary Fine Jewelry Report gives the prospective buyer the metal identity of the item, stone identity, estimated weights for diamonds, color, clarity etc. in a compact form with color photograph. A realistic retail value places the article in perspective for an informed decision. This an abbreviated report not for insurance, but for verification and relative
value. The cost is $40 by appointment/down to $30 in quantity with 3-5 day turnaround.

CD Support Services for pre-owned jewelry now include high resolution CD burned
photographs to include in your advertising. Our detailed photos help the client visualize their upcoming purchase or archive items for future use. Add from $15 to your existing service. Can also be used to compliment your fine jewelry appraisal by putting everything on CD.

Want to Sell? Our brochure will be available soon
Our newly revised “What You Need To Know About Selling Your Fine Jewelry” gives the layperson insight into the realities of marketing fine jewelry and the various methods available to them. Information for private sale, auctions, E-trading, print media plus possible tax implications. Click on Selling Your Jewelry or call for this updated brochure.

Who's Appraising Your Jewelry? (op-ed with Ted)

If you want to appraise real estate, youneed a special license. If you want to appraise jewelry, just print a business card.
When I got into the business of appraising jewelry over twenty-five years ago, no special licensing was required to place value to someone’s jewelry. Today, little has changed. Appraisers of fine jewelry abound, some willing to do anything to acquire business - and I mean anything.
NGL has given up enough business over the years to support many “appraisers” who don’t really care what value goes on an item - just so they can profit by the transaction. I keep seeing appraisals up to eight times the jeweler’s cost—a bit high considering today’s competitive market, don’t you think? Since NGL does not cater to all elements of the jewelry industry, we loose business to those who do, but retain an integrity to the remaining jewelers who believe in honest representations to their clients.
Many appraisers also deal in jewelry on the side (or up front). Not illegal, not even immoral except when they represent themselves as “independent”. And ours isn’t an isolated industry. Appraisers and agents in other fields routinely enter into transactions over the articles they examine, but I think that smacks of conflict- of-interest.
Am I ever tempted to sell to the public, especially after seeing the rip-offs I do? Sure. I could make a lot more money than I do now, but feel I would impugn my integrity to the industry and the public as an independent appraiser. If I do ever cross over, I will be up front about it.
As the Northwest’s first independent fine jewelry appraisal laboratory and one of the few that doesn’t sell jewelry, NGL takes pride in offering uncompromised appraisal services for insurance, estate and other legal purposes. I hope that matters to you.

From NGI to GIA

Many people ask about becoming a Graduate Gemologist (G.G.) through the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the foremost school for gemology in the industry and creators of most of the gemological systems used in the trade today. Whether studying in residence at GIA’s Carlsbad California campus or through correspondence while staying at home, the processes of diamond grading and gemstone identification with hand’s on training at NGI will set you up for success.
Just ask Audrey Forrest, newly
anointed G.G. and former NGI intern– now employed here, assisting in our gemology classes and at the lab, while learning the processes of appraising fine jewelry. As an NGI student, Audrey exercised our offer of studying for the GIA courses using our school equipment. Already knowing the fundamentals, she cruised through her studies with near-perfect scores, becoming a
G.G. in well under a year while employed locally by Mill Creek Jewelers.
Over the years, several NGI graduates have gone one to become G.G.’s and found little trouble with the GIA curriculum because they had already learned the tough stuff right here at NGI!
For a small investment, you will gain confidence in the examination of diamonds, their treatments and substitutes and learn to use gem ID equipment such as the refractometer, polariscope, dichroscope, specific gravity liquids and, of course, the microscope. Even if you do not wish to become a G.G., an NGI education pays big dividends for both those in industry and consumers.

Pssst...Wanna buy a loupe?

Did you know that we sell basic gemological stuff, like jeweler’s loupes, tweezers and books? Recently, we found great buys on some other things and would like to share them with you now. All purchases are at our lab in Bellevue, WA with applicable sales tax.
Colorful Jeweler’s Loupes
10X corrected loupes are available in exotic colors such as Mocha Brown (a Seattle favorite), Lapis Blue, Emerald Green and Hot Pink. Of course, basic black is always in fashion: $25 plus tax. We also have a 20X loupe at $27.50.


Ultrasonic Cleaner Kit
A real ultrasonic cleaner with stainless steel tank, 42,000 oscillations per second and included industrial strength solution. We also throw in a jeweler’s rouge cloth for a finishing touch.
The complete kit is only $69.95 plus tax.



Metals Gram Scale
Accurate to 0.1grams or pennyweights. Also measures ounces (to 0.001) and carats (0.1). Fits in a shirt pocket. $59.95 plus tax


We also have a limited number of books available

Tucson Review

Each year, I take a small number of my gem students (see Ted’s Tucson Tour NGI/ school section) to the world’s biggest gem and mineral show in Tucson, Arizona early February. This year our contingent researched gem prices, bought a little (some a lot) and made future contacts.
What’s Hot? After many years of speculation, Tanzanite has finally gotten a more solid base price - not as much from new material but the selling off of old stones at firmer prices. The future should be interesting, what with a push for more localized production, selling though a cartel style arrangement and price ”augmentation” to stratify the production into a wider range of qualities– we’ll see. And as prices for the best material approaches that of decent blue sapphire, why would one want a brittle, heat induced zoisite instead of durable sapphire, anyway? Maybe I will do an article on the tanzanite hype, next time.
Pink stuff is hotter than ever. Sapphires, tourmaline, topaz, spinel, etc. are still trendy. Last year’s Be-diffusion scare on sapphires seems to have subsided, but bear in mind it can take a pink sapphire to a 1/10th its apparent value. Be – ware. (Be means beryllium treatment, a diffusion process that induces color at a nearly undetectable rate and has made orange sapphire almost un-saleable). Because other colors can also be created the endorsement of
un-treated gems has gained increased marketability.
Pearls are more stable this year, with better management of Tahitian production and marketing, more controlled Chinese production and sale and higher end products available. Interesting multi-color strands of mixed regions (Tahitian, South Sea, Philippine, etc.) were more prevalent. Some had natural and treated colors and a few were guaranteed to be of natural coloration.
Next year’s Tucson class roster is already filling, and with the right gem course prerequisites, you could join us.

Lab notes...tales from the Lab-or-a-tory

Every hundred bridal sets or so, we get to appraise something really different. Here
are a few of the more interesting items encountered at the lab recently. 1) Opals. Lovely
black opals within an Art Nouveau necklace with pique-a-jour enamel and diamonds. A
magnificent piece of art. Unfortunately, some of the opals were crazed - meaning light
fractures within the stones - took away nearly all of their value. While those opals did not
contribute to the overall value, the piece was still worthy of significant auction interest. Apparently,
long storage in a safety deposit box was the culprit. 2) Synthetic Diamonds. Occasionally, a client brings in an item without prior information. Sometimes that brings about red flags. Especiallywhen the item happens to be a green diamond. Add a yellow one and a colorless one—all small stones, and our firstthought was either a collector with new specimens, or synthetics . With the colored diamonds being flawless, we got suspicious. When the colorless diamond showed black metallic looking characteristics, we were certain. When confronted, the client confessed we are viewing synthetics. She was a business reporter doing an article on a new synthetic diamond process. Her article highly quoted G.I.A. director Bill Boyajjan and noted the lab that detected the synthetics- us.
3) Pretty Big Diamond. Yeah, I know I speak flippantly of diamonds as merely crystallized carbon, maybe because I grade so many every day. We in the Seattle area do get the occasional big diamond (that would be over ten carats) and even I get impressed. A recent entry pegged in at our largest in a while at 11.45 carats. We placed the value at about 200G’s (the resale/wholesale gap gets very narrow at this level) and it was put up for an E-trade auction. Happy bidding.